Cosy comfort food: five winter favourites in Cologne

Cold, dark, January. Is your mood in a bit of a slump too? Here’s the rescue: steaming, warming comfort food. Five places in Cologne that deliver pure winter comfort.

• Johann Schäfer: modern brewpub cuisine in the Südstadt
• Haus Müller: cauliflower mushroom, razor clams & skrei
• Gasthaus Scherz: somewhere between tafelspitz and kaiserschmarrn
• Restaurant Fabian: creative, regional, made for sharing
• Haus Schnackertz: mustard-crusted beef, cheese spaetzle & mussels

Johann Schäfer: modern brewpub cuisine in the Südstadt

What could be more wintery than duck breast with port wine jus, red cabbage and chestnut croquettes? Exactly: not much. Johann Schäfer, which has become something of an institution in the Südstadt, has plenty more comforting options on the menu. How about a vegan beetroot and cabbage roll, pumpkin dumplings or endive salad with potato dressing? Sounds good, right?

This young brewpub focuses on regional produce, seasonal ingredients and hearty comfort food. Fans of rustic meat dishes will definitely get their fix here, but vegetarians and vegans are always well catered for too. And honestly, that’s exactly why we love it.

Opening hours: Mon–Wed 5 to 10 pm, Thu + Fri 12 to 10 pm, Sat + Sun 11 am to 10 pm
Address: Johann Schäfer Brauhaus, Elsaßstr. 6, 50677 Cologne

Haus Müller: cauliflower mushroom, fermented yellow beet & skrei

If you were to look up the Danish word “hygge” in the dictionary, there should probably be a photo of Haus Müller next to it. The interior is wonderfully cosy, yet still feels Scandinavian and quietly refined.

That mood carries straight through to the menu: elegant without being overdone, creative and, above all, seasonal. Think skrei – also known as winter cod – served with fermented yellow beet, or pickled radicchio with stilton, raisins and pear. The cauliflower mushroom, a delicately flavoured wild mushroom with a sponge-like texture, is another highlight and works beautifully when fried until crisp.

Opening hours: daily from 5 pm
Address: Haus Müller, Achterstr. 2, 50678 Cologne

Gasthaus Scherz: somewhere between tafelspitz and kaiserschmarrn

Classic Austrian cooking feels almost made for winter: fragrant beef broth with tender tafelspitz, root vegetables and plenty of horseradish (known as kren) to get the circulation going, or sweet, fluffy pillows of kaiserschmarrn with plums and lots of cinnamon. After a long walk in the cold, it somehow tastes even better – and nowhere quite as good as at Gasthaus Scherz.

Michael Scherz and his team know their craft and, almost as a matter of course, serve some of the best Wiener schnitzels in the city. Vegetarian options are admittedly limited, but it’s always worth asking. At the moment, the menu includes filled pasta parcels with Jerusalem artichoke and preserved lemon cream, as well as braised, pickled mushrooms, with dishes changing regularly.

Opening hours: Tue–Sat 5 to 11 pm, Sun 12 to 8 pm
Address: Gasthaus Scherz, Luxemburger Str. 256, 50937 Cologne

Restaurant Fabian: creative, regional, made for sharing

Tucked away on the very edge of Ehrenfeld, you’ll find a true culinary gem: Restaurant Fabian. All dishes are served in tapas-sized portions, perfect if you like to try a bit of everything. Two to three plates per person is doable. Or come with friends and share.

Caramelised La Ratte potatoes with leek and apple beurre blanc, smoked salmon trout with cauliflower, hemp and lemon balm, or poppy seed cake with plum sauce and salted caramel ice cream. Honestly, how comforting can winter food get?

The service is genuinely warm, and you’ll forget about your winter blues faster than you can say, “Shall we share the roasted pointed cabbage with miso and hazelnuts?” Promise.

Opening hours: Tue–Sat 6 to 11 pm
Address: Restaurant Fabian, Venloer Str. 531, 50825 Cologne

Haus Schnackertz: mustard-crusted beef, cheese spaetzle & mussels

Haus Schnackertz doesn’t just serve hearty traditional cooking, it mainly serves comfort, the kind that instantly lifts your mood. The wood-panelled corner pub feels like it’s always been there and is a true neighbourhood favourite. Locals gather here for the famous Nippes-style mustard-crusted beef or a strong beef broth with egg custard.

Insider tip: The weekly specials are not to be missed. They change regularly and tend to be even more seasonal than the main menu. At the moment, you’ll find proper winter boosters like mussels, Kaspressknödel with spinach, butter and parmesan, or lamb’s lettuce with potato dressing and croutons. Suddenly, the cold season feels a lot easier to bear.

Opening hours: Tue–Sat 5 pm to midnight, Sun 11.30 am to 2.30 pm and 5 to 10 pm
Address: Haus Schnackertz, Bülowstr., Cologne