If Cologne had three unofficial religions, they’d be Carnival, football and Kölsch. Around almost every corner you’ll find one of the city’s iconic traditional brewpubs, standing like cathedrals of local life. They’re where Cologne comes together over a glass of Kölsch. Whether you’re at Päffgen, Früh, Lommerzheim or Malzmühle, the famously gruff yet charming Köbesse (traditional Kölsch waiters) bustle between the tables, serving freshly poured Kölsch in the city’s signature slim glasses.
Locals know the drill: place your beer mat on top of your glass if you don’t want another Kölsch. This pale, top-fermented beer is lightly carbonated and, as the locals would say, should “öm Joddeswelle” (for heaven’s sake) never be served flat. The foamy head should be nothing short of perfect. Strict rules govern what may officially be called “Kölsch”. Like Carnival, the beer even has its own governing body: the Kölsch Convention. Thanks to its Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), the city’s roughly 20 Kölsch brands may only be brewed within Cologne. Sünner is the oldest brewery, while Reissdorf and Gaffel are among the names you’ll come across most often.
Join Cologne’s younger crowd for an evening of Büdchen-hopping (traditional kiosks) and you’ll soon discover another local ritual: many nights out begin with a Wegbier – a beer to enjoy on the way to the next stop. Local guides can even show you the best routes on beer-themed walking tours. But Kölsch is at its best in one of the city’s many traditional brewpubs. They’re an inseparable part of Cologne’s identity. And while the tradition remains as strong as ever, a new generation of publicans is boldly taking it in new directions.
Four brewpubs giving tradition a fresh twist
Tradition meets regional ingredients and modern ideas: Johann Schäfer in Südstadt
Eight years ago, Till Riekenbrauk set out to give Cologne’s brewpub culture a modern twist. He transformed a former 1920s freight depot on Elsaßstraße in the city’s Südstadt district into Johann Schäfer – a contemporary brewpub that combines industrial charm with genuine Gemütlichkeit. High ceilings, warm brick walls, long communal tables and an open kitchen create a welcoming atmosphere from the moment you step inside.
Head chef Sven Kloppenburg and his team give traditional brewpub classics a lighter, seasonal twist, with a strong focus on regional ingredients – especially vegetables. The menu also features a wide range of vegetarian and vegan dishes, from beetroot tartare with smoked mayo to house-marinated cucumber salad. Almost everything is made in-house, from sauces and spice blends to Mett canapés prepared with the restaurant’s own cured pork.
The fried corn-fed chicken is served with smoky chilli crunch and Thursdays are all about schnitzel. Like many of Cologne’s new-generation brewpubs, Johann Schäfer sources its ingredients from a close network of local farmers and artisan producers, with animal welfare at the heart of its philosophy. The kitchen also follows the nose-to-tail principle, making use of every part of the animal wherever possible.
One of the house specialities is the famous JS beer bratwurst, marinated in Johann Schäfer’s own Bioland-certified Südstadt Pils. Alongside this unfiltered, cold-hopped pils brewed with Saaz hops and four different malts, the brewpub also serves an unfiltered Helles and a distinctive beer spirit sustainably distilled from leftover beer.
Themed evenings take place at the beginning of each month, while lunch is served on selected weekdays. During the warmer months, guests can also visit the Johann Schäfer beer garden at nearby Rheinauhafen, where riverside seating and light bites provide the perfect setting for a relaxed afternoon.
Here, the brewpub concept is combined with a strong focus on music and culture. In partnership with Cologne band Kasalla, the venue hosts readings, comedy nights and intimate live performances. The culinary philosophy remains unchanged: fresh, regional and seasonal. “Here, we’d like to place even more emphasis on the bar atmosphere once the kitchen has closed,” says Till Riekenbrauk.
And the story continues. This summer, Riekenbrauk joined forces with Kasalla to open another venue in Ehrenfeld: Marie & Johann.
From stage to table: Kasalla’s Marie & Johann
Marie & Johann brings together two Cologne institutions. “Marie” is a nod to one of Kasalla’s biggest hits, while “Johann” pays tribute to the brewpub Johann Schäfer. The result combines Till Riekenbrauk’s hospitality expertise with the band’s passion for bringing people together and celebrating Cologne’s vibrant culture. The idea was born during the pandemic, when the band suddenly found themselves with more time than they ever expected. Band manager Kim Gerstenberg soon joined the project, and after more than two years of planning, securing permits and extensive renovations, Marie & Johann finally opened its doors on Aachener Straße in June.
Alongside hearty favourites such as pork belly and Mett on rye bread (open sandwiches topped with seasoned raw minced pork), the menu also offers an impressive range of vegan dishes, including grilled tomato with hazelnut cracker, Thai coriander and oat-lemon cream. But it’s not just the food that makes the place so inviting. Patterned wallpaper, pale tiles, warm wood and upholstered benches create the cosy atmosphere of a neighbourhood favourite from day one.
Although Kasalla is happy to leave the day-to-day running to the hospitality professionals, the band still sees culture as an important part of the concept. Intimate concerts, readings and larger celebrations are all on the programme. And who knows? Just as they once surprised fans with an impromptu Carnival concert on a construction site, the hosts themselves may occasionally take to the stage.
Brewing up a family legacy: Herzblatt in Ehrenfeld
Further west, in Ehrenfeld, the vibrant neighbourhood where lifelong locals and newcomers come together, Nils Lenzen, C. Alexander Mix and Georg Schmitz-Behrenz opened Herzblatt last autumn. Their philosophy is simple: to breathe new life into the traditional pub with plenty of heart. Together with brewer Paul Nolte, the three former cocktail bartenders have served up a fresh take on the traditional pub and restaurant.
Nolte’s grandfather once ran a pub on this very site. Today, his grandson brews small batches on his own microbrewery, while larger quantities are produced through contract brewing. Their ambition was to bring back Cologne’s traditional neighbourhood pub without turning it into folklore – and they’ve pulled it off. Inside, clean lines, understated design and a cosy atmosphere strike the perfect balance between contemporary style and homely comfort.
Herzblatt also hosts regular pub quizzes, while its leafy beer garden does what Cologne does best: bringing people together. Instead of Kölsch, the beer flowing from the taps is Nolte Cristall – a bottom-fermented brew that’s closer to a lager than Kölsch, as easy-drinking as a Helles and topped with a fine, lasting head. It may not be Kölsch, but Cologne is part of its DNA: Cristall was already being brewed for the original pub on this very site back in the 1920s.
The beer disappeared from the city’s collective memory in the 1970s, only to be revived decades later by brewer Paul Nolte using his grandfather’s recipe. His mission is to bring forgotten beer styles back into the glass. The kitchen follows the same philosophy, reinterpreting traditional brewpub classics with a lighter, more modern and Mediterranean touch.
The stars of the menu are the many variations of Herzblatt’s signature potato waffles – a creative take on the classic Reibekuchen (crispy potato pancakes). opped with everything that’s currently on trend, they work just as well for a hangover breakfast as they do for supper. Vegetarian and vegan options are, of course, also on the menu.
A historic inn brought back to life: Leev Marie in Lindenthal
In leafy Lindenthal, one of Cologne’s greenest neighbourhoods, Mark Junglas fell in love with a 200-year-old inn and brought a piece of the city’s history back to life. Once known as “Marienbildchen“, the building still bears its original old-German lettering in hand-blown glass tubing across the white façade. It once welcomed distinguished guests, including Konrad Adenauer.
After standing empty for years, Junglas painstakingly restored the building at his own expense before reopening it as Leev Marie. Today, guests once again gather in the wood-panelled dining room around the green tiled stove, surrounded by stained-glass windows, wrought-iron details and the traditional beer tap.
Originally trained as a master butcher, Junglas grew up in the Eifel region and later worked as a professional gamekeeper before, as he puts it, moving to Cologne “for love”. Today, he makes his own game specialities, Flönz (traditional Cologne blood sausage) and many other meat dishes from scratch, following a true “field to fork” philosophy. Venison, pork and poultry come from trusted local farmers and hunters.
Bestsellers include “Himmel un Ääd” (black pudding, mashed potatoes and apple purée) and schnitzel with homemade sauce. Gaffel Kölsch is also served as Wiess – the traditional unfiltered version of Kölsch – and even the alcohol-free beer is available on tap. To round off the meal, guests can enjoy a glass of “Leev Marie Marille”, an apricot schnapps from a traditional distillery.
Junglas originally imagined Leev Marie as a more rough-and-ready neighbourhood pub: a place where people could eat, drink, linger, roll the dice and play games together. Dice games such as “Schocken” are ready and waiting in a small cupboard, although guests are still warming to the idea. Like Cologne’s new generation of brewpubs as a whole, change is happening boldly, yet with great respect for tradition.
Just as malt, water and yeast give every beer its body, character and distinctive flavour, Cologne’s new generation of brewpubs blends the finest ingredients with craftsmanship, fresh ideas and plenty of personality. A new wave of publicans is preserving tradition while confidently reimagining it for today.
Here, tradition isn’t copied – it’s carried into the present. And even Cologne’s century-old brewpubs are embracing the movement, refining their menus and rethinking their concepts. As Paul Nolte likes to say: “Just like it used to be – only better.”
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