Long off-radar for most visitors, Cologne’s Südstadt neighbourhood has evolved to become a fashionable part of town. Between the patina of the former West Germany and buildings still sporting their original exteriors, you’ll find the centenarians – Cologne’s traditional brewery pubs. For local lad Till Riekenbrauk, this was the perfect place to open a new-style brewery pub in what used to be a haulage firm. At Brauhaus Johann Schäfer, chef Sven Kloppenburg creates typical Cologne brewery fare with a contemporary twist, accompanied by the brewery’s own Südstadtpils. “The menu has lots of meat-free dishes based on ingredients from regional suppliers, as our homemade dishes and vegetables are too,” says Sven, who shuns the heavy pork knuckle dish that’s standard on brewery menus in favour of lamb shanks so tender the meat falls of the bone.
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Method
Ingredients for 4 servings: 4 lamb shanks (approx. 350g each), 20g pepper, 5g dried garlic, 5g dried onion, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 star anise, 20g brown sugar, 10g smoked paprika powder, 20g salt, 4 garlic cloves, 2 onions, 3-4tbsp cooking oil, 2tbsp tomato purée, 200ml red wine, approx. 250ml (lamb) stock, 500ml buttermilk, 1l milk, juice of 2 lemons, 4 small kohlrabi, 10 porcini mushrooms, 1 bunch radishes
Wash the lamb shanks. Crush the pepper, dried garlic, dried onion, cinnamon stick, star anise, brown sugar, smoked paprika and 15g of the salt with a pestle and mortar and rub into the shanks. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Sear the shanks in oil in an ovenproof frying pan, add the onion and diced garlic and fry in the tomato purée. Deglaze with red wine and place the pan in the oven for around two hours. Pour over the stock while the meat is cooking. (The shanks are ready when the meat falls off the bone). Wrap three of the kohlrabi in baking parchment and place them in the oven for 70 to 80 minutes. Heat the buttermilk, milk, lemon juice and rest of the salt in a pan until the temperature reaches 80°C. When the milk curdles, remove the pan from the heat, leave the mixture to infuse for an hour and then strain it through a fine cloth or sieve. Peel the kohlrabi and arrange on small plates. Finely slice a (peeled) kohlrabi, the mushrooms and the radishes. Marinate in a little lemon juice and salt and place on top of the baked kohlrabi. Serve with the lamb shanks and buttermilk ricotta.
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